Going from Rough Stone to Finished Jewelry


Rough gems are a bit of a toss up. Sometimes is really impossible to know exactly what you're going to get after the cutting is complete. Case in point, the above mandarin garnets.

These stones, all 12 rough pieces, came to me via a broker from Africa many years ago. While sitting in my office in Bangkok, a broker I had never bought anything from previously brought out this parcel.

The color, as can be seen, is spectacular. But these stones posed a bit of a problem. The shape of the pieces, being all rough and uneven, does not really make the it clear what type of clarity I would expect after cutting. While much of the value of the stones is based on clarity, so too are in it's coloration.

So I bought the lot of stones - and I put them in the draw, where there sat for nearly 10 years. I always promised myself I would have them cut, but never really had it in mind until this year.

I pulled out the lot, and brought them to a very reputable Brazilian cutter here in NYC, that I frequent. And, within 2 weeks, my stones were complete. However, while they exhibited amazing color and sparkle, they were not perfect stones. Each had some measurable amount of inclusions.


But a beautiful stone is a beautiful stone, and these things, while included, are just magic. So I felt compelled to design a simple men's ring, that utilized the best piece from my new Fanta colored collection of mandarin garnets. My idea was a simple design, which followed the shape of the cushion cut stone, and added a few diamonds accents. I made a few CAD mockups, and then finally set about to make the final ring.


And the final piece came out as such. What's really great about this ring, is that the bezel setting of the stone helps to bring out the depth of color, while minimizing the visibility of the inclusions, creating a magnificent yet simple ring.